Adventures (and Misadventures) of Elliott and Mary
Issue 23 - June, 2006: Back up the Big Muddy
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In the grand scheme of things, the 290 miles of the Mississippi/Ohio/Cumberland
leg doesn't look like much compared to the 6,500 miles or so of the full
loop but it creates much more than its fair share of anxiety.
Some 'features' of the trip:
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The only marina between Alton, Il and Green Turtle Bay Marina at Grand
Rivers, Ky is a collection of barges tied to the shore at Kimmeswick, Mo.
- 'Hoppies Marine Services'.
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The only fuel stops are Hoppies and a fuel barge tied to the flood wall
at Cape Girardeau, Mo.
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The current on the Mississippi has to be taken into account. We saw 3-3.5
mph for the most part in June of a dry year. For Letitia with her
neck-snaping max speed of 9.2 mph we felt good when we could make 6 or
more mph. Our longest run of 70 miles would have been really long
with something like a 6 mph current, a not uncommon event in some times
of year.
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The depth of the river can change fairly substantially. Anchorages we used
this year were not usable last year.
But, I have decided that the biggest problem is:
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In their own minds, folks (at least I) let travel on the river(s)
BE a problem. The second time was much more enjoyable than the first.
I reserve the right to change my mind in the spring when the river
is at least 20 (yes, twenty) feet higher and the current is running 6-7
mph.
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For other pictures, chartlets, and descriptions see our 2005
trip down in Issue 19.
We headed down the Cumberland River through Barkley Lock from
Green Turtle marina. The trip is a little longer than if we went through
the canal to the Tennessee River and Kentucky Lock but you can wait
for the lock at the marina and any delay at all evens out the time for
the leg.
We had to wait almost two hours at Lock 52 below Paducah. Just as we
finally got in the chamber and started down a thunderstorm swept through
with 45 mph winds. Glad we were tied to the lock wall!.
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We anchored in the river in front of the dam a mile below L/D 52. We had
anchored here coming up and I like it.
Because of the current on the Mississippi, I wanted a full day going up
from its confluence with the Ohio.
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We anchored in the mouth of Angelo Towhead at about mile 1 on the Mississippi
at Cairo, Il. We were far enough off the river that we were out of the
channel and sheltered (I hoped) from errant tow boats by a highway bridge
abutment. Must have worked, they didn't hit us. The water had been too
shallow here in 2005.
After a while we got use to towboats (they actually 'push' the barges
on the river) and their cargos. This guy is 6 barges wide by 6 long. You
just stay out of their way! Downbound boats have the right-of-way so you
will see upbound tows this big waiting below tricky curves for the downbound
tows to come by. The towboat captains were a treat to listen and talk to,
very professional.
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We anchored in the Little River Diversion Canal at Cape Girardeau again.
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We tied up in back of the lock approach wall at Kaskaskia Lock
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We stopped at Hoppies for a welcome rest and dinner on the town in Kimmswick.
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Finally!! we got to Alton Marina in Alton, Il. We had a trip or two here
and picked up our friend Chris for the next leg up the Illinois.
Till Later!!
The Captain and Mary
June 2006