Adventures (and Misadventures) of Elliott and Mary

Issue 19 - September-October, 2005: The Mississippi, Ohio and the Cumberland

Down the Mississippi

This was a leg we had been dreading.  We had read about swift currents and about big towboats. We had heard about the lack of refueling and stopping places and having to run long distances at night to find one. On top of that, 2005 was a really dry year. Anchorages that had been fine were reported too shallow to use. All in all a stretch to 'get through'.  On the other hand, everyone did 'get through' it. Bolstered with that thought we set out from the Alton Marina.


 

We start out

The Mel Price Lock and Dam (Lock 26 on the Miss.) is only 2 miles below the marina and we were able to time our departure to get a fast opening. We left at about 8:00 am and were through the lock (mile marker 200)  by 8:30.

The Missouri River merges into the Mississippi at mile 195. The water must have been colder than the Mississippi because when we got to it we drove into thick fog.  Thick fog!! And no place to stop and wait for it to lift. .

We turn on the running lights and the automatic fog horn and try to see the shore. We're straining to see anything and watching the radar very carefully. We've got two miles of river travel and then enter into the Chain of Rocks Canal, a ten mile long bypass around a shallow stretch of the river. The towboats are smarter than we are. They don't travel in this stuff (except for the one who whistled at us for a 2 whistle pass -- scared the %$^& out of me).

We issued a Securité call as we entered the canal and we were mostly relieved to hear no response. This 'suggested' that there were no boats coming at us. Good thing because we could almost not see the banks. The fog got a little lighter and when we called ahead to Lock 27 requesting passage we also asked if we could tie up there till the fog lifted.

As we locked through the lockmaster said we could turn into the smaller auxiliary lock entrance and wait there. The auxiliary lock was not in service for some reason.
We were happy for the courtesy and tied to the approach wall about 10:30.
The fog was burning off and we took off a little after 11:00 when two other pleasure boats locked through.
 

We took the picture about 10-15 minutes before we left
 


Hoppies


 

Stopping at Hoppies is almost a 'rite of passage'. You're seeing about half of it. It's a string of barges with a fuel dock and power outlets. We had about 8 cruisers plus at least a dozen local boats tied up the night we were there. Every night Fern, the wife of the owner, gathers the cruisers together and gives a chart-talk about conditions on the river and possible anchorages. We'll pretty much travel with these boats  for the next few days.




 

Kaskaskia Lock and Dam


 

We are on the back side of the southern approach wall. There is room for about 6-7 boats without rafting up on the wall and room for at least that many to anchor. We all brought out the lawn chairs and had cocktails on the wall.

This is the last reliable place to tie up for the next 210 miles.

Seventy miles down the river is the Little River Diversion Canal (mile 48) at Cape Girardeau. This is usually a good (the only) place to stop short of Cario and the Ohio area. The canal is narrow (we had no problem turning Letitia around) but a small current flows and we only used 1 anchor. We anchored in ~7 feet with a river stage of 9.5. I don't know if this would be a good stop with a stage in the 7 foot range. The Mississippi can easily rise or drop a foot during the night so you have to catch the Corp river stage projections.
 
 
 
 

River Travel

We now have ahead of us about 120 miles down the Mississippi to the Ohio, about 60 miles up the Ohio to the Cumberland, and 30 miles up the Cumberland

This guy is five wide by six long. They don't really bother us. We just have to get out of their way. And we want to stay away from their rear end as well. These big guys have three humongous engines and you could surf on their wake.

There are fleeting areas to avoid and some blind curves but the biggest problem for us is at locks. Commercial traffic has priority over pleasure craft and the two locks on the Ohio handle lots of it. After a long day down the Mississippi (we ran from Cape Girardeau) and then up the Ohio (we saw 12 mph going down and 6 going up) we anchored in the river below Lock 52. There were tows lined up to go through the lock when we got there and when we went to bed they were still coming.

That next morning the lockmaster called down to us (there were three of us - Letitia, Destination, and Classy Lady) to see if we were awake. He was ready to lock us through. We weighed anchor and scurried over.  Not only getting through Lock 52 (one of the three most conguested  in the country) without having to wait but also getting through early set us up for a really successful day. A successful day because then we were able to get through Barkley Lock at the end of the Cumberland River run before the marina closed for the night.
 
 

Home at Last (well, at least a rest)


We were so happy to be able to stop that we stayed at Green Turtle Bay Marina on Lake Barkley for a week
 

In the next Issue we head up the Tennessee to Pickwick Lake and our winter quarters.

Till Later!!
 
 

The Captain and Mary

September, 2005
 
 
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